KAIPUZHA – Part 1

Joseph (Uppachan) Pathyil,
Canada

Kaipuzha is more than a mere place. It is a dreamland; it is the hidden jewel in the paradise that is Kerala. Kaipuzha is unique as its characteristics cannot be seen anywhere else in the world. The name is derived from the fact that there are canals and rivers in the greater Kaipuzha region. Kaipuzha is part of the Kuttanadu area in Kerala. Kuttanadu is closely linked to the “kayals” of Kerala. These are lagoons connected to the Arabian Sea, except that at certain times of the year, the water is inland. The shallower areas of the kayals form Kuttanadu fields , which are essentially the back-waters of the lakes. In recent past, the backwater regions have been virtually forded up with bunds and causeways from the kayals, so that salt water does not form part of the aquatic system. However, the Kuttanadu region is waterlogged. For the purposes of cultivation, water from the fields has to be pumped out into the canal systems. Once the crops are taken, fields are again inundated. Again in olden days - till not more than 30 years ago- farmers cultivated the fields only once in two years, leaving water filled areas fallow the rest of the time. With chemicals and fertilizers, crops are now being planted at least once a year, with disastrous consequence to the ecological system of Kuttanadu. The usual mode of transportation in the region has been by canoe. With meandering rivers and canals, and water-filled fields, one went everywhere by boat or canoe. Children learned to swim soon after they learned to walk. Water and water-related activities become part of the psyche. Kaipuzha is part of the northern reaches of Kuttandu.

Kaipuzha however is not all fields and water. In fact, the landmass adjoining the fields is hills and valleys, undulation of brown and red earth. The church of Kaipuzha is on the highest of the hills, standing majestic and visible to the naked eye from miles out in the fields. While to the west of the church- steeple is seen the verdant fields and blue waters, to the South are flat lands, and to the East and North more hills and valleys. Kaipuzha is an exclamation point in the outer reaches of Kuttanadu. It is both water’s-edge and land’s beginning. It is rice fields and rubber plantation. It is the meeting point of both earth and water.

Let us sit on the big boulder in front of the barn (Kalappura muttam)in Kalluvelil , on the edge of the water-filled fields. Look to the west. As far as the eye can see are miles of waterlogged fields, with bunds and causeways lined with coconut trees. The occasional canoes dart around - fishing for konju (scampi), or guiding hosts of ducks, or just going places. Then there are other boats laden with coconut, or clay vessels, or other merchandise moving majestically on the serpentining canals, going to markets all over Kuttandu. The water is calm, a gentle breeze wafts from the west. The sun is never unbearable even at noon. Fish frolic in the shallow waters of the fields. Cranes brood, and other water birds scoot around preying on the unsuspecting fish. The woodpecker is busy preparing its nest. The crows and the kuyils are going about their daily business of living.. The water buffaloes and oxen lazily loll in the water. Peace fills this paradise.